I had heard of this place in the old surf yarns but had never ventured
to find it. The story is that you have to have the swell just right,
coming on a certain angle and fairly solid on the main coast. The swell
had to travel between an island and the mainland to enter a course where
it would form on the outside of a long right hand sandy point break.
Just the thought of a sandy point break was interest enough for me.
I had only ridden 2 such places in my life. One I still cannot mention
and Aragon Bay in Sri Lanka. I don’t know there is something about
walking out along a beach while the surf rolls past with the breaking
zone just metres away. Even walking back along
the beach to the takeoff zone is very appealing and very psyching when
the expectation increases as you get nearer to the water entry. Aragon
Bay itself tapers from 6ft on the takeoff, gradually decreasing to 2ft
then 1ft and sometimes only inches high hundreds of metres from the
takeoff but stays within metres of the beach and keeps peeling perfectly.
The true sandy point break is a beautiful thing to behold. Super
bank at Coolangatta tries to do it but the rock setups along the way
break the illusion. The other true sandy point break that I have ridden
cannot be reached by car only by boat and only appears when the large
swell rolls in on a particular angle and has a certain wind blowing.
The swell has to be quite grunty and this also limits your ability to
get to the spot and also to land a boat ashore while you surf.
Just recently I was doing a coaster without a surfboard, because of
an injury and also the water temperature was still quite low, just driving
and checking the spots that I knew might have waves. The swell was quite
large and most of those known breaks had waves and people out surfing.
Some breaks were getting a bit crowded and I knew that more people would
pick up on the surf event very soon as it was still quite early in the
morning. As I said before I was not carrying my surfboard and so the
trip down the coast took on quite another element of adventure. I had
plenty of time so I just started pulling into other back roads. I almost
got lost a one stage even though I thought I knew the area quite well.
I remembered a conversation with a friend many years ago about this
sandy point break that only worked rarely on the right conditions so
I decided to see if I could find it. If I had a surfboard with me I
probably would have never come this far because most breaks had good
waves on them and they were places that I usually surfed and never found
the time to get to this more out of the way location. So on I drove,
thru all the small towns then out into a territory that I had never
ventured into. The road almost seemed to end and narrowed over an old
cattle grid and into the country side. Only a gravel road now and the
scenery was spectacular, the road was fairly high up and I came around
this corner and looked out over the sea and there it was. What
an amazing site from up high in the air. A sandy point that appeared
before me looked around 1 km long. I found out later it was actually
about 3 km. I could see even from this distance that there was white
water breaking on the point but it was very difficult to see how large
the waves were. I parked the car and walked further up the hill to take
all this in. I had lived and surfed here for most of my life and never
had I seen this place. I was totally mesmerised by the scene before
my eyes. I took a few more photos and tried to zoom my camera in as
far as I could and then walked back to the car and continued on the
I felt a real excitement, one that had disappeared after years of haggling
for the same old morsels along the coast in the same old breaks. Finally
I came to what seemed to be the closest place to the point that the
car could reach. I had heard that you could drive up along the beach
to the point but with a sign up preventing this and also a beach that
I wouldn’t trust any four wheel drive on, I decided to walk to
the point. It looked a long way away and from where I was parked I could
not even see white water any more. There were a couple of boats fishing
in the area and the bay looked quite sheltered, so I grabbed a water
bottle and camera and headed off on the long walk. Clear skies and a
south breeze but fairly warm as the bay was sheltered from the wind.
For the first kilometre the water was totally flat, just the odd bit
of surge up the beach seemingly coming from the wrong direction, more
side on to the point. I kept walking and I guess about 2km into the
journey conditions started to change and there were small swells rolling
sideways along the shore. All the way along this secluded beach the
point seems perfectly angled to collect the swell, it just tapered for
so long and not a rock in sight just gold coloured sand and a short
distance to the dune which was about 6ft high and seemingly had been
washed away regularly.
The further along the point I walked now the more it looked like a surf
break – a real surf break.
I could see the end of the point now and definite swell lines hitting
the point and then wrapping around in an arc and breaking in perfect
succession about 70 metres from the end of the point and then rolling
for a further 100 metres with sections of varying quality as the waves
followed the sandy point. It was surfable, especially in sections and
not a sole in sight. Not a surfboard, not a car just out there! I didn’t
even have a board to break the surreal tranquillity of this scene I
saw before me. It was almost like I was an invader from another planet.
I was allowed to watch this perfection but not to enter it, to displace
the water, to smash the lip to carve the face, to destroy the curl or
so it goes with modern day showy surfing. The wave is only a thing to
be used up and expelled; it is something to be made a mess of, to be
ridden to show the ability of the surfer not the beauty of the wave
itself. I watched the wave for a long time, walking to the takeoff and
back down the line. It was beautiful, just by itself, not ridden, no
one changing it, just natural untamed. I flashed on Coolangatta for
a moment and thought of the 300 bodies out there competing for space,
dominating, slashing, demonstrating their abilities and then back to
this thing of quiet beauty that just rolled down this quiet sandy point.
I was like a wave park that had been protected from marauding surf packs.
Somehow it had been protected. I thought of all the times waves had
rolled along this point, the high tides, the low, how it changed where
the sweet spots were. How long this wave was when it was really going
off. I am not saying this day was pumping, it wasn’t, but if I
had a board I would
have been out there, particularly a mal. The wave just showed me a glimpse
of its potential, just a portion of what it looked capable of and I
guess someone who is reading this and has ridden one of those moments
will just smile and know what I am talking about.
There is a right hand perfectly shaped point break and it goes unridden
for, probably most of the year. Sometimes it is cold and sometimes not,
sometimes it is 2ft sometimes it is 10ft. But it rolls and rolls protected
from surf slaughter most of
the time. Will this article change it, I doubt it! Some people know
about it, some suspect it exists. It may be just a dream, but does the
wave roll, for the full 3km along the point on the odd occasion with
no one even looking on.
I had to leave, I was running out of fresh water and as I returned to
civilization, I kept turning and looking back, for one last gaze, one
last look into the dream before I wake up. When I came but to suburbia
again I checked it on google earth just to see if it were real and even
there you could see it. It’s amazing, right before your very eyes,
right under your very nose but still it’s easier to pull into
the car park full of skegs and hit and smash the tubes with all the
guys and gals than to go out there on an adventure, somewhere there
is no one but you and THE WAVE.